Mountainbikesuspension.co.uk

No matter what characteristics an object has, as long as it is on this big rock we call earth, it will be governed by basic physical laws.  These laws of physics therefore impact upon any object, movement involving these objects is also regulated by constant variables included within these rules, and so the way the object reacts to these rules can be anticipated. This is the concept that the DW Link suspension system relies upon to work.  The DW link system balances out the forces created from the bikes movement resulting in arguably the best suspension system to date.

The rules that the DW Link is based upon are made up of simple physics:

1.      Every rider has the same ‘centre of mass’ therefore weight distribution is constant

2.      Laws of physics dictate that every action has an equal reaction.  Therefore if a bicycle accelerates forward, the rider’s total mass is transferred backwards and so the ‘centre of mass’ shifts backwards.  This is the main reason for suspension becoming locked out during braking and acceleration, the weight shift causes compression of the rear suspension and causes a bobbing motion.  This causes ‘bob’

3.     Pedalling causes forces on the drive chain which results in fluctuations of the chainstay lengths, these fluctuations are reflected by the amount of pedal feedback through the suspension, the less change in the chainstay length during pedalling, the less pedal bob.

4.     Pedal bob is usually counteracted by extra dampening in suspension systems, this detracts from the efficiency and is usually only necessary for less sophisticated suspension, DW link suspension minimises the amount of dampening used and so the suspension is more reactive to minor deviations on the trail.  This gives better traction on the terrain aiding in changing of direction and changing in speed.

For more information on DW link visit www.dw-link.com , do you own a DW link equipped bike, does this suspension system work, have any questions?  Why not visit the Forums

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For those who ride a bike fairly often a good pair of shoes and clipless peddles make for a smashing investment. For those who are picking out a pair of shoes for the first time we have put together a handy little guide to picking the perfect cycling shoes.

Firstly you need to identify what style of riding you are planning on doing.

Offroad shoes offer more protection around the ankle and are made of a thicker, more flexible material to help the foot cope with uneven surfaces.

If you are planning on riding on the road or even racing then it is best to look for a lightweight stiff shoe. Most shoes that are being made now usually have carbon outer soles which stops your foot flexing and so increases the power that you can push through the cranks. Lightweight shoes also offer the benefit of saving weight on the climbs.

In summer you might consider a shoe with built in air vents and a wicking fabric to help cool your foot however you really want to make sure not to wear this type of shoe over winter, even with over shoes or over socks your feet with still be cold and wet.

A growing trend for riding in winter is to wear a cycling boot rather than a bike shoe for both mountain bikers and road riders alike mainly due to the fact that they keep the foot warmer and drier than traditional cycling shoes.

Emma Lois Watson manages the cycling shoes e-tailer Cycling Shoes Direct; the UK’s only specialist cycling shoe website.

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The Virtual Point Pivot system is made up of a double linkage configuration which links together the front and rear triangles of the frame. With virtual pivot designs the two separate linkages, their attachment points and varying lengths can dictate the path taken by the rear triangle when the suspension is active. Because the configuration of the pivot points is almost indefinitely variable, designs and therefore characteristics and rideability of virtual pivot point equipped bikes vary widely. Depending on the aims and wishes of the designer the rear end of the bike can be made to pivot in almost any way.

Due to the constant movement of the two linkages there is no one fixed main pivot point, the pivot point position is constantly changing depending on the actions of the two linkages, in essence a single constant pivot doesn’t exist, which is why this suspension solution is known as ‘virtual pivot.’

One popular implementation of the virtual pivot design is that patented by Santa Cruz ™ and is branded under VPP. The patented configuration of the VPP linkage system creates an rear wheel travel path similar to an elongated S. This path brings with it some minor problems, there is a period where the linkages effectively cancel out each other leading to a very brief lock out of the suspension, however this is at a very precise point in the wheel path.

Each VPP frame is designed to work with sufficient ‘sag’ to provide truly active suspension, this meaning that with the rider on the bike, the suspension has enough positive and negative travel either side of the sag to provide active suspension and to prevent lock out, this allows this type of suspension to deal with some big bumps but also react well to smaller bumps. This will also maximise traction by keeping the rear wheel glued to the terrain!

VPP equipped bikes also pedal well, the system utilises some of the chain pulling force to counteract the natural pedal bob making a smooth ride, however the design occasionally suffers when faced with aggressive climbs and pedalling.

One negative with this type of suspension solution is the weight, as a result of the extra linkages and the strains that are placed upon the small linkages, this can lead to problems in frame durability. As a cure for this fragility the frames are made stiffer leading to a lot more weight needed to support the extra complexity of the frame. Another negative is the ground clearance, having a pivot just behind the cranks reduces the clearance of the rear wheel, which can lead to very tricky riding especially in muddy conditions.

Interested in VPP? Thinking of buying a VPP bike? What do you think of VPP suspension systems?? Why not share your opinions in the forums!

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Hi,

Thanks for visiting Mountainbikesuspension.co.uk, we have now added a Forums section. Mountain biking is growing constantly, with new suspension designs, shocks, theories and technologies being released every season, there is far too much for one person to keep up with so why not share your own experiences with other riders, head over to the forums and check them out.

Enjoy!

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The horst link design was originally named after it’s inventor, Specialized bought a number of patents from this designer in the late nineties including the patent for the horst link design.  Specialized then prevented other manufactures from infringing on this patent but continues to license the use of the design to smaller manufacturers such as Titus, Turner etc.  Horst link is no longer a common name in the bike suspension field, it has been adapted by Specialized and is know known under the branding of FSR.  Some companies market it just plainly as a four linkage suspension system with a horst link pivot.

The 4 bar design consists of 3 pivots, one behind the bottom bracket, one at the top of the seat stay and the horst link pivot just in front (and below) the rear wheel drop out.

The patent that Specialized bought and subsequently licensed out concerns the position of the pivot below and in front of the rear drop out which is known as the horst link.  The horst link design allows the rear axel to move through a more complex arc than that associated with a single pivot design, this allows more vertical travel for the rear wheel, allowing it to cope better with bumpy terrain and maximising the time it spends in contact with the ground, granting better traction.

An advantage of the horst link design is that as the pivot is located in front and below the rear drop out the suspension forces and the drive train forces are separated and therefore can work independently.   This means that despite a change in speed, either accelerating or decelerating the suspension remains fully functional, this essentially eliminates the brake jack syndrome that plagues other types of suspension solution.

In regards pedal bob, reviews are quite varied, so much so that Specialized have designed a specific component to collaborate with their FSR suspension to minimise pedal bob, this is known as the ‘brain’ which I will discuss in future articles.  It seems that depending on the overall design pedal bob feedback can be varied, however in theory as the drive train and the suspension are separated the chains leverage effect over the suspension is reduced and therefore so should pedal bob.

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One of the most important components on your full suspension mountain bike or your hardtail mountain bike is your tires. Most mountain bike riders look for light weight, strength and traction in a tire and many advanced riders even have multiple sets of tires for different riding conditions.

So what tire is right for your mountain bike and riding style? Mountain bike parts are not cheap and you want to make the right decision.

Tire Construction:

Consider a Kevlar bead or folding tire – A Kevlar tire weighs an estimated 60-80 grams less then a conventional none folding tire. It does not sound like much of a weight savings but multiply that number by two and then consider the rotating weight and it becomes significant. For an extra couple of pounds, in my opinion, it is worth spending the extra money.

Terrain and Tread patterns:

As an example will you be riding on the local trails that are hard packed dirt or on slick rock?

For hard packed terrain consider a narrower and smooth tire. As an example a tire that is 1.8 to 2.0 wide.

For hard packed terrain with a good mix of rocks you might want to consider a wider and smooth tire. As an example a tire that is wider then 2.0.

For loosely packed terrain consider a knobby tire. Choose a tire with a really aggressive pattern as this will help you gain maximum traction in the dirt. For muddy terrain consider a narrow tire. Narrow tires will reach the bottom of the mud and create less resistance when turning making it easier for you to move forward.

Many of the major tire manufacturers make very good tires that are great for all conditions.

Riders Body Size:

Consider your body size. If you are heavier you might want to consider a wider tire.

You can buy your tires at a bike store, order them from an online website or from an individual sell tires posted on a mountain bike classifieds website.

The information above is a rough guide on what to consider when buying new mountain bike tires. Many bikes stores that have mountain bikes for sale and bike parts can also give you their opinion.

Bike Servant is experienced with full suspension and hardtail mountain bikes, bike parts and organizing race events for mountain biking.
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The single pivot rear suspension system is the simplest rear suspension design available.  Simply put the design involves the rear axle being connected via a swingarm to a shock unit (usually a coil and oil or air shock) via leverage on a single pivot point, hence the name single pivot suspension system.  This suspension type was the most common during the rise of mountain bike suspension and as a result has been around for a while, the system itself was derived directly from the type of system used on motorcycles.

The single pivot point position influences the entire movement of the rear swingarm as a result the location of the shock and leverage point can affect the way the bike as a whole performs.  Depending on where the pivot point is positioned can dictate how efficient the bike is and also how well the suspension itself performs.

There are a few negative points from this type of suspension design that you may expect from technology that is getting a little dated, as a result of the swing arm being mounted on a single pivot bikes with this type of set up tend to suffer from compressive brake jack.  This is a term given to when the shock compresses under braking, the effectively reduces the functionality of the suspension when decelerating.  This can lead to a bumpy ride at low speeds. 

Pedal bob is also a problem that plagues this type of suspension mechanism, in low gears, the cranks and cassette pull together, which pivots the swing arm causing the shock to compress, this again leads to a bumpy ride and pedal bob reducing the efficiency of the bike as a whole.

Wear and tear is something that single pivot suspension suffers from more so than other suspension solutions, the reason being that all the movement, both horizontal and lateral from the swing arm goes through the same single pivot point, this movement through the pivot in all directions can lead to more wear and tear on the bearings and bushes due to excessive loads being transferred through the pivot.

On the upside the single pivot design is very simple and doesn’t involve many moving parts at all.  As there is not a lot of moving parts, the scope for variation is quite limited, even manufacture to manufacture the single pivot systems are fairly similar, because of this, although wear and tear may be an issue, repairing it isn’t.  The bearings and bushes used in the single pivot system are generally of standard sizes and as a result are readily available and affordable.

In conclusion, single pivots are certainly not perfect and are flawed in the ways highlighted above, however as a cheap, easily maintainable solution to rear suspension it can be argued that if you can overlook the detrimental effect on the pedal efficiency and the bumpy ride at low speeds, the single pivot solution is definitely an option that should be considered if you are looking to buy on a budget!

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This article throws light on the most prominent confusion that one goes through when buying a mountain bike. That is, whether to buy a bike with suspension or without suspension. If you are the one among them, this article throws light on the pros and cons of mountain bike suspensions and is meant just for you.

Be it car or bike they take you to your destination. There are certain factors which make you more comfortable with cars than with bikes. The same is the case with mountain bikes, be it bikes with suspension or without suspension they both take you to your destination. However the bikes with suspension cost you more than the one without suspension.

You will not understand the difference between them unless you experience a ride with each one. You might go to a showroom to buy a bike with suspension. You will be confused to hear the dealer questioning about if you want a bike with front suspension, back suspension or both. Now what’s the difference again? Simple the more equipped a bike is the higher skills it needs and even higher amount of energy it requires on the side of the rider. If you notice high end users and professional mountain bikers they use only bikes with front suspensions because they need less energy of the rider when compared to the bikes with both suspensions.

If you ride on both the bikes one after the other, you will notice that the bike with dual suspension took more energy for you to reach your destination. Rather if you notice the bike with only front suspension gave you comfort to the same extent as the dual one moreover it absorbed the jerks and shock as the dual one did but took lesser energy on your side. It left helped you reach the same destination with same comfort but with lesser energy surfing.  The higher the cost of the bike usually it will mean the higher the quality of the suspension fitted (in very generic terms), it is thought that eliminating the bounce produced by pedalling and therefore energy loss is of paramount importance of a full suspension bike, the more expensive the bike is, in theory the more efficient the bike should be in turning the pedalling motion into forward propulsion.

Look for quality of the suspension system upon the cost. Or we can say go and buy a bike with excellent front suspension system rather than putting the same amount of money in buying a dual suspension bike of lower quality in the same money. Good luck

Adam Peters is the editor of many articles on mountain bike suspension published at http://www.bikecyclingreviews.com .More articles on dual suspension bicycles and cycling at his web.

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Taking care of your full suspension mountain bike or hardtail mountain bike can be very simple and it will also help increase its mechanical life. Below is a maintenance guide that should be considered after every ride in order to help keep your mountain bike mechanically sound.

Steps: 1.Remove all of the accessories (lights, bells, etc) on the top of the handlebars.

2.Turn the bike upside down so you can remove the wheels and inspect the drive train.

3.Carefully remove the front and rear wheels to give you more room to work on the bike.

4.Clean the drive train (derailleurs, chain, and crank) with a brush and soapy water. Also use a wet soapy rag on the chain and rear derailleur.

5.After you clean your bike parts make sure you dry them thoroughly with a towel so they do not rust.

6.Wash the underside, frame and front fork, of the bike and make sure all moving parts are free of debris.

7.Wash your front and rear wheels by cleaning the rim, spokes and cassette. Then put the wheels back on the bike.

If the wheels are not true and or rubbing on the brake components make the necessary adjustments.

9.After your chain is back in place turn the pedals to check the drive train. Make sure the bike pedals smooth. If you hear any strange noises coming from your wheel bearings investigate further.

10.Turn your bike over so it is right side up and wash the top. Do not forget to dry the bike thoroughly.

11.Test your front and rear brakes and make any necessary adjustments.

12.If applicable inspect your front and rear shocks.

13.Thoroughly lubricate you drive train (chain, cassettes, crank and derailleur) with the recommended oil. The steps listed above will help you keep your bike in good working order and also help you prepare for your next ride. If any mechanical malfunction is noticed during the process make sure it is addressed. Your local bike shop, which sells mountain bikes for sale and bike parts, will be able to help replace a component if additional help is needed.

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After talking to different riders, employees at a few bike shops, reading article and posting questions online I put together a couple of bullet points to consider when buying a front suspension fork.

Determine if your bike has the geometry to support a suspension fork. If it does have the correct geometry try to determine the maximum height fork it can accommodate. I almost bought a fork with 160mm of travel but the seller convinced me not to buy it because he believed my bike did not have the correct geometry.

Consider your riding style. Are you a cross country, down hill or a dirt jump rider. Make sure you buy a fork that suites your style of ride. This will help prevent you from buying more fork than you need. Suspension forks can vary in price and can be very expensive. However if you ride often spending a little more on a fork might be warranted.

Determine the size of the bikes head tube. The size of the tube could limit your selections. Is your head tube 1 inch or 1 1/8 inches, etc? Consider buying a suspension fork that is adjustable. Some forks are adjustable at the head and some have a pop lock adjuster that mounts on the handlebars. The adjustable function will accommodate different riding terrains.

Determine if you need to buy new parts to install your new fork. Do you need a new headset, stem or brakes?

Consider the installation charges of a new fork. If you plan on installing the fork yourself you will need to press on a bearing and potentially cut the fork tub. This could result in additional tools and time so you want to weigh up your options. Ask them if you can ride their bike to test out their fork. Some riders buy great bikes, immediately upgrade them and never use the original parts. You can find new or near new parts on Bike Servant which lists mountain bikes for sale, bike parts and race events.

The tips listed above will hopefully help you narrow down your choices before you purchase a new fork.

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